After arriving back in Salvador, we returned to our Pousada o Pagador Promessa. Aptly named after the steps it overlooks; these steps being famous for sharing the same name as the first Brazilian film to win a prize at the Cannes Film Festival. There was a band setting up on the steps.
We dumped our stuff and headed out for some food. After buying some dirty street-meat from a vendor and then promptly throwing the uncooked old meat away. We went back to the steps to find things hotting up. They were playing 'Chan Chan' by one of my favourite bands, Buena Vista Social Club, from Cuba. This as usual reminded me of my Father, who introduced me to them some years ago.
There was Makahonia being smoked everywhere quite openly. It was being passed selflessly around for all to enjoy. I spoke to a local named Miacho and he took me off to score some. We chatted about football and where we were both from, largely I was just agreeing with him enthusiastically, while clumsily forming sentences with the little Portuguese I have picked up. I did pleasantly surprise myself and both the journey and transaction took place with no English being muttered. The weed was good.
Arthur and I had a smoke and then returned to our pousada to enjoy the band from our balcony. The band were absolutely awesome. Mixing elements of afro-jazz, funk, soul and traditional Brazilian.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P3kU9yBb4-I
After the band finished playing we went out to enjoy the Tuesday night festivities. Tuesday is like our Friday night over here. We ended up in a Reggae club in the main square of Pelarinho, it seemed very inviting from the outside although once inside, felt completely different. Arthur and I headed for the back of the club but when we got there we were warned not to go any further. I needed to piss so went off in search of a commode and ended up doing a full circle to no avail. A guy must have picked up on the fact that I seemed a little lost and came over to talk to me, I asked where the toilet was and he beckoned me to come with him. I followed but felt a little uneasy. We walked into the area I had been warned off and he pointed me in the direction of a very dodgy looking alleyway. I had a piss and he led me back onto the dance floor, before he left he warned me to stay where he could see me, at this point it became apparent that his intentions were honest and that he worked for the club as an undercover bouncer. I was relieved. I met Arthur again and told him what had happened. We then went to get a beer and I was approached by a pregnant women pleading me to buy her a beer. Obviously I wasn't going to contribute to the harm of her child and refused, she then tried to go in my pockets! I removed her hand at once. Later Arthur and I were dancing and again we were approached, this time by a thin looking white guy. He introduced us to two Maori NZ`s. He then offered us coke which we refused but then insisted on introducing us to his `man`, we then refused again but the trafficante started racking lines up on the dance floor, right in front of the security guard. He said it was okay because they didn't have any weapons! We eventually left with the two Maori`s and the two peddlers - who were heading to an after party. It turned out the after party was in a favela so at the first available opportunity (when in sight of armed police) we said our goodbyes and went home. What a crazy night that was?!
Wednesday, 7 March 2007
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